The Sunday Times, Big Weekend in Marseille
France’s south coast “city of 100 neighbourhoods” is moving on from its gritty reputation of mafia and vice—today it’s remaking itself, with an environmental-focus and restoration at every corner. But thankfully, its vivid Mediterranean and North African character remain unchanged, as does its easy-going laissez-faire attitude. With paleolithic and architectural history that has been rebuilt to pristine glory, sublime coastal inlets and islands to explore, and interesting culinary traditions that fuse France with its colonial roots, Marseille is a city that welcomes everyone to the party.
WHAT TO DO
Combine the daily morning fish market in Marseille’s Vieux Port with the cheapest and most colourful market in town, Le Marché des Capucins—a foodie’s haven—humming with new respectable holes in the wall. Try the Senegalese pasties from Pastels World (€10,50 for ten, en.pastelsworld.com).
In 1985, a local diver discovered a majestic Paleolithic cave in nearby creeks, 37 meters below sea level, after a 5-hour descent through tunnels. The acclaimed Cosquer Méditerranée is a painstakingly-recreated carbon copy—complete with prehistoric paintings—near the equally impressive Museum of Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean (Mucem) and the 17th century Fort Saint-Jean—its seaside ramparts are idyllic to meander with ice-cream in hand. (grotte-cosquer.com, £4-14).
Along the tracks of St Charles railway station lies a refurbished tobacco factory, Friche La Belle de Mai, that now encompasses a farmer’s market, skate park, and one of the best arty bookshops in town. Visit during a festival, hang out at the canteen-style restaurant, watch the open-air cinema or dance at sunset to the weekend DJ (lafriche.org, free entry/cinema, DJ parties £4).
With Marseille in tatters after World War Two, legendary French architect Corbusier designed a city-within-a-city—the Unité d’Habitation—a visionary urban planning solution inside the brutalist, playful architecture that would make his name. Now a UNESCO Heritage Site, the bar overlooking the sea makes a perfect pit stop to admire the apartments designed according to Leonardo da Vinci’s golden ratio (citeradieuse-marseille.com, free entry, English-speaking tours £13).
The small fishing village of Les Goudes is idyllic for lazy seaside days after a bike ride from the city centre. A 14-minute hike away is La Baie des Singes, a small deep-water inlet with a sublime restaurant offering the catch of the day, or a public beach if you walk over the rocks (city bike hire, £1 per hour/ fish starts at £8 per 100g, la-baie-des-singes.fr).
THE COOLEST NEIGHBOURHOOD
Achingly hip for years, the Cours Julien is still edgy and alternative—but its slow regeneration is complete enough for its streets to be bustling with independent stores selling everything from cheese and wine to clothes and bijou home furnishings. Its artsy vibe is evident in the graffiti on every wall and the myriad of ateliers offering workshops in sewing, pottery or linoleum art. For sustenance, stick to the smaller places such as Limmat (dishes start at £6, limmatmarseille.com) or Black Bird Coffee for brunch (£23, sweet or savoury, BBCMarseille). Otherwise buy a waffle from ego, sit on a step and watch the world go by (£3, glaces-ego.com).
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
La Goulette
The packed tables of this small diner just minutes from Le Vieux Port turn over quickly with everyone eager to eat some of the best couscous in town. Save space for the Tunisian desserts like the almond and honey cake, kalb el louz and traditional baklava pastries (mains from £4, delivery available, lagoulette).
Maison St Honoré
This upscale organic bakery is a glutenous delight, using only sourdough to produce 20 different types of loaf, notably the barbu du Roussillon. With three locations across the city, it does the best beignets (French donuts), croissants and pain au chocolat in town. Perfect for breakfast on the move or coastal picnics (maisonsthonorepierreragot).
Livingston
A sustainable bar à vins/bistrot run by a dynamic trio who also have the feted La Mercerie deli/restaurant in the Noailles district. Suggestions include a nectarine and green melon gin granita, accompanied by veal croquettes or a tomato, plum and salsa verde (tapas plates from £8, livingstonmarseille.com).
Les Réformés
On Marseille’s most famous boulevard, Le Canebière (named after the local cannabis fields used for harvesting hemp in the Middle Ages), this new panoramic rooftop bar/restaurant offers inventive cocktails and a lively rotating menu of delights such as octopus and beetroot salad, with a DJ set at weekends (full menu £25, lesreformes.fr).
Bistrot Plage
This sophisticated but unpretentious beach club has the best real estate in town. Take a dip in the Mediterranean via a rope ladder, then have fire-baked pizzas and cocktails delivered to your sun lounger. If the budget allows, eat dinner after showering al fresco to watch the sunset. (loungers £22, pizzas £15, bistrot-plage.fr).
AM
With 22 seats, 3 Michelin stars, 30 dishes in over 3 hours, this feast offers ‘a boarding pass’; a sequence of dishes inspired by the chef’s Congolese and French roots with pairings that include smoked eel in chocolate sauce. Winner of the 2022 One to Watch award from the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. (tasting menus £200-£338, alexandre-mazzia.com).
WHERE TO STAY
The People
This modern and bright hostel offers private rooms (doubles or family) or shared dormitories in the heart of one of the oldest, quietest and most charismatic districts, Le Panier. It’s central and has some wonderful art inside (beds start at £42, thepeoplehostel.com).
Tuba Club
In the fishing harbour of Goudes, divers and water babies will be enticed by five sea-facing cabins, a bar, restaurant and sun loungers. The hikes past war-torn bunkers are unique, the vibe chilled and the local fish restaurants a treat. (Cabins for two from £138, open 1 May to 31 October, tuba-club.com).
Le Petit Nice
A chic hotel spa and feted Michelin-starred restaurant on a rocky outcrop near the cute fishermen’s bay of Vallon des Auffes. It’s secluded and faces one of the best beaches where you can watch the crazy cliff jumpers dive off the overpass into the water below (doubles from £338, dinner tasting menus from £282, www.passedat.fr).
IF YOU ONLY DO ONE THING…
Order a sumptuous takeout with wine chosen by a sommelier and head up to Basilica Notre Dame de la Garde for sunset, toasting the best views over the entire city (dishes start at £7, La-Fabriquerie).